Meyer Lemons by David Karp

Lynne spoke with David Karp about Meyer lemons, an intriguing hybrid that originated in China. The following is excerpted from that interview:

Lynne: What exactly is the small, yellow-orange citrus called a Meyer lemon?

David: Scientists believe the Meyer lemon is a hybrid, a cross between a regular lemon and either an orange or a mandarin. They're sometimes smaller than a regular lemon, rounder in shape, with a thin, soft, and smooth rind which ranges from greenish when slightly immature to a rich yellow-orange when fully ripe. The rind lacks the typical lemon peel oil aroma and the pulp is darker yellow and less acidic than a regular lemon. The complex flavor and aroma hints of sweet lime, lemon and mandarin.

Lynne: Where do they come from and where are they grown now?

David: Like most citrus, Meyer lemons originated in China where they have been grown for at least several hundred years. Frank Meyer, a plant explorer for the U.S. Department of Agriculture, found them growing near Peking and introduced them to the U.S. in 1908. Today, most are grown in California's Central Valley, south of Fresno and in the Sacramento Valley. A few growers in northern San Diego County sell mainly to organic and farmers' markets. They're also grown in Texas and Florida. Peak season in most areas is November, December, and January, but can extend to April.

Lynne: What should we look for when buying Meyer lemons?

David: A rich orange-yellow rind indicates a fruit that was allowed to ripen fully before harvest so it will be succulent, juicy and aromatic. Look for a bright, shiny specimen. After a few days they begin to shrivel and the rinds become hard and dry but they're usually fine inside.

Lynne: How do you use a Meyer lemon?

David: Use it for most purposes as you would a regular lemon. It's perfect for a soufflé or lemon tart and, because it's sweeter than a regular lemon, makes good lemonade requiring less sugar. On the other hand, when you want a more acidic lemon taste, as in a vinaigrette or marinade, you're probably better off using a regular lemon.

Lynne: What mail order sources can you suggest for top-quality Meyer lemons?

David: Several recommendations are:

Ralene Snow

Snow's Citrus Court, northeast of Sacramento

916-663-1884

Available through January for about 75 cents each plus shipping. Picked fresh and shipped the day you order.

Melissa's World Variety Produce

P.O. Box 21127

Los Angeles, CA 90021

800-588-0151

Sells 10 pounds by mail order for $28.50 plus shipping.

Atkins Nursery

3129 Reche Road

Fallbrook, CA 92028

760-728-1610

Sells a four-to-five-foot tree for $11.50 plus shipping if you want to grow your own.