English Farmhouse Cheeses for the Holidays

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Steve Jenkins favors English farmhouse cheeses for the holiday table. His top picks include:

Stilton: This ivory-colored cow's milk cheese featuring generous greenish-blue veins and a natural (but inedible) brushed rind is England's only name-protected cheese. It's rich, full, cheesy flavor pairs well with robust red wines and is classic with port. Top brands include Colston Basset (best) followed by Long Clawson Dairy, J. M. Nuttall, Millway Foods Ltd., and Tuxford & Tebbutt (all excellent).

Lancashire: A firm, unpasteurized cow's milk cheese with a natural, cloth- covered (inedible) rind. Lancashire's mild, nutty flavor is especially suited to a Chardonnay or Muscadet. In the U.S. and U.K., look for farmhouse examples made by John and Ruth Kirkham at Beesley Farm (Lancashire). Avoid factory-made blocks.

Cheshire: An organically orange-colored cow's milk cheese with a natural, waxed or unwaxed, cloth-covered (edible) rind. Its slightly saline, tangy, mild, savory flavor marries well with light, fruity red or white wines. Best brands include Abbey Farm (Steve's favorite), The Bank, and Mollington Grange Farm. Look for creamery versions in the traditional drum shape. Avoid factory-made, plastic-wrapped varieties in wheels and blocks.

Leicester: A cow's-milk pasteurized cheese, organically dyed orange with a natural, cloth-covered (inedible) rind. The rich, nutty, candy-like flavor, with a hint of sharpness and creamy mouthfeel, calls for a light red wine or beer. All cloth-wrapped, creamery-produced examples are good. In the U.S. and U.K. look for Tuxford & Tebbutt.