France's Franche-Comte Region

Steve Jenkins says October is the month for cheeses from Franche-Comte, the mountainous (and coldest) region of France stretching from the eastern edge of Burgundy through the foothills of the Jura Alps to the Alps along the border with Switzerland. While these cheeses are available year-round, they are especially good this time of year when the grass in the high pastures is at its peak. Look for these cheeses that Steve favors:

Comte: Steve thinks this French version of Gruyere is better than its Swiss counterpart. It's more rustic, with a nuttier, toffee-tasting sweetness.

Morbier: Made from the leftover whey of Comte, this huge (13 to 16 pounds) semi-soft cheese with its layer of ash in the middle has a complex flavor tasting of nuts, fruit, hard-boiled egg, and veal sauteed in butter.

Vacherin du Haut-Doubs (Vacherin Mont d'Or): The USFDA prohibits export of all French raw-milk Vacherin into the United States, so enjoy this cheese when in Europe. There are several relatively new cheeses modeled after Vacherin du Haut Doubs that are readily available in the U.S., however, and these faux Vacherins duplicate the oozy texture of the authentic, raw-milk French-made cheeses. Look for Edel de Cleron or Ecorce de Sapin, both made by the Perrin Company. Available all year, these cheeses come banded with a strip of aromatic bark.