Cheese from Auvergne

Cheesemonger Steve Jenkins considers the Auvergne region in the heart of France to be one of the world's most important cheese-producing areas. Exceptional cheese comes from the Auvergne and it is readily available. Three top picks to look for include:

Cantal: a huge cow's-milk cheese weighing about 80 pounds, Cantal is often compared to Cheddar but, while slightly sharp in taste like a Cheddar, the texture is not as dense and it is more buttery. This cheese is the third-biggest seller in France.

Saint-Nectaire: this gorgeous-looking, semisoft cow's-milk cheese has a rind that often smells of lettuce. Steve says the only acceptable factory-made brand is Roussel.

Fourme d'Ambert: one of the great blues, this ancient cow's-milk cheese resembles English Stilton in flavor but is creamier and moister. Reasonably priced, Steve says this is "simply one of the world's finest cheeses."