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Vegans in Lake Wobegon

July 4, 2003 |

Dear Garrison:

Is it time for Lake Wobegon to have a vegan restaurant? What would the natives think?

Dr. Charles Aloisio
Atlanta, Georgia

A vegan restaurant is pretty much what you find in any home from the end of July to mid-September when the gardens are rolling in vegetables. As you know, fresh vegetables from the garden put any other food to shame, including meat. It becomes a trivial side dish when the harvest is in. Compared to fresh sweet corn, meat has no attraction at all. But storebought vegetables are so inferior to fresh that they're not even in the same food group. So over the winter and spring, we go to a more primitive diet of pot roast and potatoes and tunafish and pancakes. We sit hunkered around the fire in our bearskins and eat half-baked beef. And we look forward to a new season of vegetables. I suppose it's different in Atlanta, as so many things are. But that's how it is in Lake Wobegon.

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