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« Jet-lag and deadlines | Main | All in a day's work... »

Am I being watched?

Posted by Brett Neely on Saturday, January 7, 2006

It's my first visit to China. And I wasn't quite sure what to expect. Would we have government minders buzzing around us at all times? Would the mike be yanked out of my hand if we went somewhere without permission?

Turns out, the answer's been no - so far. A couple of days ago, we were down in the Shanghai subway recording some sound without our official escort. After about an hour of running around the system with microphones, I noticed two policemen staring at us. We kept on taping but in the back of my mind I thought, "they're going to find some pretext to shut us down."

About five minutes later, someone in uniform came up to us and started speaking in Chinese. Fortunately, Kai speaks it pretty well and a conversation ensued. The man asked us to record in a spot that wasn't quite as busy - he didn't want us potentially holding up throngs of people. Fair enough - we moved 20 feet away and were undisturbed for the rest of our session.

But even if the authorities aren't watching you - plenty of others are. This is an economy with an enormous surplus of cheap labor. At every restaurant and hotel you go to, there are three times the number of staff that you'd see in the US. Halfway through your meal, someone will come and give you a clean plate. Your food is passed through three different servers before it reaches you, etc.

At our hotel, the housekeeping staff pay close attention to our comings and goings. See, we've been working a lot from our rooms and are often around when they'd do their normal rounds. But if I leave with my coat on, even for half an hour, someone obviously takes note, because my room is cleaned when I get back.


Comments

THE HOUSE STAFF BUSY AT EVERY OPPROTUNITY TAKE ME BACK TO 1964 WHEN I WAS STATIONED AT CAMP COURTNEY ON OKINAWA. OUR OFFICER'S QUARTERS WERE ATTENDED TO BY WONDERFUL NASAN'S WHO CLEANED AND WASHED AND IRONED " EVERYTHING ". IF ONE SO MUCH AS LAID SOMETHING DOWN UNATTENDED FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES, IT WOULD DISAPPEAR IN TO THE WASH AND REAPPEAR IRONED AND FOLDED. I SOON FOUND THAT MY CLOTHING WAS WEARING OUT FAST NOT FROM WEARING BUT FROM WASHING AND IRONING AND FOLDING AND WASHING AND IRONING AND... WELL YOU CAN SEE THE FRANTIC SCEEN. I FORGET WHY I JUST WALKED INTO THE LIVING ROOM BUT BACK COMES 40 YR OLD INFO. IN VIVID DETAIL. " AIN'T THE HUMAN MIND SOMETHING " +DWS
Posted by: DAVE STOWELL at January 9, 2006 5:27 PM
I just returned from China after my first trip there. I felt the same way. Kept looking behind me to see if anyone was looking. And yes everyone was looking. After visiting six different cities, from Hong Kong to Beijing I was totaly at ease. The people were all very nice and helpful. In Beijing we walked the several blocks from the hotel to McDonalds for breakfast and then to the Forbidden City. I can't wait to go back.
Posted by: Robert Baker at January 10, 2006 7:32 AM
Thank you SO much for giving the economic history of China timeline. I wish I could get a copy of it, because the special website for it would not let me print it out. This is extremely useful in understanding where China has been, economically as well as politically, and where it is clearly going - fast!
Posted by: Marybeth at January 12, 2006 6:00 PM
I had the same paranoia when I first moved to China, and some of my colleagues had it longer than I. Too concerned? Not enough? Hard to know. Take this example: while living in a more guarded and remote province of China, we sometimes heard odd clicking during international phone calls. I dismissed it as a result of antiquated technology and massive distances. One colleague, on the other hand, interpreted it to be the sound of eavesdropping equipment. Soon she became convinced that her calls were being cut off any time she began discussing a "sensitive topic", though I didn't notice anything suspicious in my calls. Was she paranoid? Was I naive? Maybe they only monitored her? After running a blog from China for 3 years, without being blocked, and having made all sorts of phone calls to and from China, I don't think too much about it. But perhaps in that time I've become self-censoring, without even noticing... Again, thanks for linking to my site!
Posted by: davesgonechina at January 13, 2006 2:41 PM

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